Southern Mexico: Day 4

After breakfast, we traveled to the Tlacolula Valley for the weekly Sunday tianguis, which is one of Oaxaca’s oldest and most important markets. Florencio guided us through the thousands of stalls selling everything from fruits and vegetables, to clothing, to livestock. I’m pretty sure you could find anything at that market if you looked hard enough.

Oaxaca Market

There is a church at the center of the market, which is both beautiful and interesting. Florencio explained to us that the main part of the church is where the people from Oaxaca City take their mass (in Spanish) while at market but that the local people worship in a smaller chapel attached of the side of the church (in their native language of Zapoteca). We respectfully entered the chapel and Florencio took us to a corner where there is a very rare (and very lifelike) sculpture of Jesus Christ made of real bone, real human hair, and a sugar mold. It was so real looking and the agony on the figures face was so vivid, you couldn’t help but be moved. Florencio explained to us how the local people pin little charms and photos to the figure’s robe, asking for blessings or health.

Market church (Local chapel on the right side)

Leaving the hustle and bustle of the market, we had the immense privilege of visiting a local Zapotec family of artisans in Teotitlan del Valle. In accord with their traditions, we initially met the family in their alter room (something all families in the community have in their homes), where the eldest of the family offered peace and welcomed us into her home (all in her Zapotecan dialect translated to us by Florencio). As a group, we offered a candle of peace, which was lit and placed next to the single candle the family had burning. Turning our words into actions (which we learned is crucial in their customs), each one of us stepped forward and exchanged embraces with each family member. I think I speak for the group when I say that the tradition was both spiritual and moving.

After our greeting, we were officially friends of the family and were given two demonstrations of how their family makes their crafts. The first was a candle-making demonstration from start to finish, showing us how the granddaughter take pure bee’s wax, melts it down adding color if needed, dips hand woven wicks into the liquid wax, hangs them to dry, and then repeats the process (which usually takes hundreds of dippings). She also showed us how she uses handmade molds to create shaped candles like those of little birds. Mairhi, from Abercombie & Kent Cheltenham, actually got to (carefully) make a bird herself!

Oaxaca candles

Making candles by hand

The second demonstration of how the family weaves rugs of intricate designs was fascinating as well. To make the dyes, the family actually collects these tiny insects that live on cactuses, which, when dried out and crushed, become a bright red powder. By mixing certain amounts of acid (like that found in lemons) and other flowers, they can alter the color to produce blues, greens, and other colors as well. We watched the grandfather work the brightly colored threads on a massive loom, and several of our group purchased some of the valuable rugs to take home.

oaxaca weavers

Our weaving demonstration

Before we left the family’s home, they cooked us a huge three-course lunch, which we ate a very large table in the alter room. After being offered cold beers and warm mezcal, we were served homemade cheese and salsa; a hearty soup of vegetables, squash stems, and squash blossoms; and finally homemade tamales – Oaxacan style. On special occasions in the Journey Mexico office, we eat tamales but I have to say, the tamales we get in Puerto Vallarta are nothing compared to these. The tamales (which are made of eclair-shaped cornmeal stuffed with different meats, then wrapped in corn husks and steamed) in Puerto Vallarta are usually quite fluffy and a little more than an inch in diameter. These Oaxacan style tamales were very flat with a consistency similar to a ravioli. They were covered in a savory red sauce and were just delicious – probably one of the best meals of my life.

Lunch in a traditional Zapotec home

As we were leaving, the grandmother explained to us (through Florencio) that she was sad because she only speaks her native dialect of Zapotec and could not properly express the love she felt for each of us and the gratitude she felt for us having visited her home. She also explained that it was not random coincidence that life had brought us all together, and she personally blessed each of us as we exited. Again, it was a very touching, moving, and inspiring experience that I feel very fortunate to have been a part of.

Pork and shrimp masterpiece by Alejandro Ruiz

When we returned to downtown Oaxaca, we went on three site-inspections of Casa Abu, Camino Real, and Casa del Sotano before freshening up for dinner. Again we were invited to the chef’s table by famous signature chef Alejandro Ruiz of Casa Oaxaca. As we sat to dine on the rooftop terrace, the skies opened up giving the dinner, literally, an electrifying atmosphere. Fortunately, we were under cover and were able to enjoy the five courses of magic that Alejandro and his team made for us as we watched the lightening and downpour all around us. In the morning, we leave via two small private planes for Tuxtla Gutierrez!

Go to Days 5 & 6 >>

Southern Mexico: Day 3

Dinner overlooking the zocalo in Oaxaca

Friday evening ended with a hearty, traditional Oaxacan dinner at Azador Don Vasco, overlooking the lively town square.  We were privileged enough to have been invited to dinner by two members of the Mexican Tourism Board Oaxaca – Nisa Lopez and Veronica Espinoza, the Oaxaca Secretary of Tourism.

Morning walking tour of Oaxaca

After sleeping off the rich mole from dinner, we enjoyed a light breakfast and embarked on a morning walking tour of Oaxaca with Journey Mexico master guide, Florencio. We were quickly in awe of the gorgeous architecture of Oaxaca, a mix of Spanish and neo-classical styles. Florencio illuminated the scenic streets with insight into the history of each important building, of which there are many. We learned of a famous Oaxacan and Mexican artist, Francisco Toledo, who purchased and restored several buildings throughout the city, making each a unique museum of art, and then donated them to the people. Toledo was concerned that natives from outside the city were intimidated by museums thinking they were only for the rich, so he was proud to declare that all of his museums would be (and still are) free for everyone to enjoy.

Breakfast at the market

Leaving the city center, we climbed the nearby mountains in our coach until we reached the lofty archeological site of Monte Alban where the royalty and elite of the Zapotec (and later the Mixtec) people built their homes and temples, some 7,000+ feet above sea level. Florencio gave us a wonderful talk about the customs and traditions of the ancient Zapotecs as well as about the local flora that was so important to both the ancient people of Monte Alban as well as to Oaxacans today. After Florencio’s moving illustrations, we were free to explore the homes, the ballcourt, and the temples of the site.

Ball Court of Monte Alban

Florencio describing the ball court of Monte Alban

From Monte Alban, we drove to the outskirts of town to meet Zenny, a famous wood-carver who, with his family, makes intricately carved and vividly painted animal figurines of all sizes. We were mesmerized by Zenny’s skill and by how each member of the family had been trained to be a master of a different stage in production. After demonstrations of carving and painting, we were treated to a homemade lunch of chicken and squash-blossom quesadillas, accompanied by shots of  Mezcal, the smokey sister of tequila.

Zenny and family hard at work

After purchasing some of Zenny’s crafts to take home, we traveled to the workshop of another famous artisan, Doña Sophia who, although she can’t remember the actual number, is ninety-something in age. For nearly a century, she has been shaping pottery and ceramics by hand from a special mixture of local clay, which, when fired in a certain method, turns completely black. Doña Sophia is one of the few potters in Mexico who still uses only her hands and two plates to spin the clay as she works, as opposed to the now common mechanical methods of spinning the material. Doña Sophia has trained her family to continue her craft and we were privileged to see her shape a pot in front of us, which was then decorated with carved intricacies by her great-granddaughter. I don’t think it’s possible for me to express in words just how special both the demonstration and meeting Doña Sophia was.

Dona Sofia of Oaxaca

Doña Sofia at work

Having business to attend to, we reluctantly left the pottery shop and headed back into town for site-inspections of three beautiful hotels: Hostal La Noria, Casa Catrina, and Casa Oaxaca. Finishing our work for the day, we freshened up and met again at Casa Crespo, where we were invited to a special, six course dinner by owner, chef, and long time Journey Mexico friend, Oscar Corizoza. More to come tomorrow!

Go to Day 4 >>

Southern Mexico: Day 2

Day 2 was a bit of a transit day as we made our way from Mexico City to Oaxaca, some 290 miles south/west. We did make two stops along the way, however, before we settled into our luxury coach for the 4 hour drive to Oaxaca.

Tlachihualtepetl

Spanish Church Atop Tlachihualtepetl Pyramid

Our first stop was in Cholula to view Tlachihualtepetl, the Great Pyramid of Cholula, which is the largest archeological pyramid in the world (yes, bigger than all the pyramids of Egypt!). It may not be as well known to the world because of the fact that it is still buried under vegetation. When the Spanish conquered the area, they built a giant church atop the pyramid and allowed the pyramid to be covered with grass and weeds. Unfortunately, we didn’t have time to actually explore the pyramid and cathedral, but just seeing it in person was impressive.

Restuarants on the Zocala in Peubla

After Cholula, we continued on to the city of Puebla, with which I was most impressed. The city’s architecture consists of both Renaissance and Mexican Baroque buildings and structures, many of which are painted in bright blues, reds, and yellows. Puebla has a beautiful zocalo, or town square, surrounded by restaurants and charming cafes. On one side of the square is a cathedral that has the tallest bell tower in Mexico!

Puebla Cathedral

The Cathedral on the Zocalo of Puebla

We visited another church in Cholula that was radiant with golden intricacies before doing a site-inspection of Mesones Sacristia, which was a really interesting hotel with a lush courtyard. Before heading off to Oaxaca, we completed one last site-inspection at La Purificadora hotel, another of the Grupo Habita.

Purificadora

Lunch at the Purificadora Hotel

Purifacadora Hotel was amazing. The building used to be an old water purification factory, hence the name, and has since been converted into a massive boutique hotel that defines chic luxury. We had lunch at one of the gigantic wooden tables (made from beams found in the factory) before making our journey south. Stay tuned for three days of reporting from Oaxaca!

Go to Day 3 >>

The Riviera Nayarit – Mexico’s Newest Hot Spot

Casa Papelillos, Riviera Nayarit

Casa Papelillos in Punta Mita

The Riviera Nayarit has been getting a lot of attention these days, and for good reason. The Riviera Nayarit is home to some of Mexico’s most beautiful coastline, private villas, and resorts. Travel Weekly recently published an article called Culture, Adventure, Sand, and Surf Await Visitors to Riviera Nayarit, highlighting the variety of adventure and nature opportunities available in the area as well as the rich culture and the vivid art of the Huichol people, indigenous to the highlands that tower over the coast.

Celebrities have been sneaking away to the area for years and many own gorgeous cost-line villas in Punta Mita, located just north of the long time favorite coastal city of Puerto Vallarta. Us Magazine.com recently published photos of the international famed Kardashian family celebrating Kourtney Kardashian’s 32nd birthday in Punta Mita.

Punta Mita is also home to the St. Regis Punta Mita the Four Seasons Punta Mita as well as countless private villas available for rent that will make your jaw drop. Due to it’s proximity to Puerto Vallarta (where the main Journey Mexico offices are located), Punta Mita and the Riviera Nayarit is a favorite weekend-retreat and surf destination for the Journey Mexico team.

Southern Mexico: Day 1

Day one was a whirlwind! Our first day in Mexico City began at 8am with an amazing fruit breakfast in our hotel (Las Alcobas), which is pictured above. Shortly after, we set out to do a series of hotel site-inspections, which took us to some of the most chic and beautiful hotels in the city including Hotel Habita, the Four Seasons, and the St. Regis (where Bono of U2 is currently staying although we weren’t lucky enough to run into him today).

After a few hours of work, we got to enjoy an expertly guided tour of the historic center of Mexico City including the Zocalo (which is the second biggest public square in the world!), the National Palace, the Templo Mayor, and the Metropolitan Cathedral. Obviously they were all amazing, but I have to say that the National Palace is probably the most impressive thing I’ve ever seen in my life. Imagining the royal court that actually lived, met, and partied in the palace as you walked its endless halls was absolutely surreal.

Diego Rivera Murals in the Palacio Nacional

The gigantic murals of the palace, painted by the famed Diego Rivera, were impressive but I didn’t grasp the true significance of the paintings until until our Journey Mexico super-guide, Juan Carlos, gave us an in-depth description of what the murals actually meant and signified. How someone could conceptualize paintings so large and so complex with so many levels of meaning just baffled me.

Next came lunch at a local torta/juice cafe, which was both delicious and fun. They had a larger variety of tortas (Mexican sandwiches) than I’ve ever seen in one place. I went with “The Mexicana,” which consisted of chorizo, bistec, jalepeños, and queso (Mexican sausage, steak, peppers, and cheese). Sooo good. The variety of juices was also impressive and they even let a few of us hop behind the counter to squeeze some fresh concoctions of our own.

Working the Juicer

After lunch, it was back to work with a site-inspection of the Mexico’s Gran Hotel, which, to me, was breathtaking. The entire ceiling of the lobby, which is probably the size of a football field about four floors up, is one enormous work of stain-glass and cast iron. At each end of the lobby is an old, elegant elevator also made of cast iron – so old in fact, they are the first two elevators ever to arrive in all of Latin America, and they still work!).  We actually ran into another VIP Journey Mexico group at the hotel and I got to watch them ride up the elevators, which is a privilege not offered to most guests.

Continuing on by foot, we walked several scenic blocks to the home of Frida Kahlo and Diego Rivera for a private tour on which our JM guide let us in on a secret that many of the thousands of visitors to the museum each year are not told! I won’t give it away, but here’s a hint: In one of the rooms you visit, you are closer to Frida than you could ever imagine.

Frida's house from the courtyard

After learning about the fascinating lives of two of Mexico’s most cherished artists, we stopped for a quick visit to the impressive Church of Coyoacan before heading out to two more site-inspections at Brick, one of Mexico’s newest boutique hotels, and at Condesa DF, another hotel by Grupo Habita – the kings of cool in Mexico.

Like I said, long day, but it was certainly worth the tired legs. Now we’re off to relax at enjoy a sure-to-be amazing dinner at Los Alcobas’s Dulce Patria restaurant, one of the hottest restaurants in Mexico City, with the Michael Chiche, the General Manager of Las Alcobas, and Marta Ortiz, the famous chef of Dulce Patria. In the morning, we leave Mexico City for Puebla and Oaxaca – stay tuned!

Zachary Rabinor, Marta Ortiz, and Michael Chiche

Zach with Marta Ortiz and Michael Chiche at dinner

*Morning Update* Dinner was fabulous! Several of us had duck in a rich mole while most of the group had a filet of sea bass that looked delicious as well. Two perfectly paired wines from Baja California were served throughout the evening, which elevated the culinary experience even further. After dinner, Michael surprised with a special champagne toast in the penthouse suite of Las Alcobas! Muchas gracias Marta y Michael! Now on to Puebla!

Go to Day 2 >>

The US’s New Travel Warning for Mexico Misleading

Is Mexico Safe?

As many are aware of by now, the US State Department updated its travel warning for Mexico on April 22nd of 2011, broadening it to include several more areas than the previous warning. While we at Journey Mexico agree that safety is always the number one priority when it comes to travel in any foreign country, we also agree with those who feel that the language of the new travel warning is confusing, vague, and fairly irresponsible.

As Travel Weekly has pointed out in an article from April 28th and in a newer article from May 5th, the new travel warning cites the entire states of Nayarit and Jalisco as areas to be avoided instead of focusing specifically on the troubled pockets of the major cities in these states where crime has occurred. Puerto Vallarta, Jalisco (recently voted by the AARP as the number one place in the world for Americans to retire) and Punta Mita, Nayarit (arguably Mexico’s hottest new beach region) have shown no signs of recent danger to tourists and are clearly misrepresented by the US State Department’s new warning.

Lumping Puerto Vallarta and Punta Mita in with the dangerous pockets of Guadalajara (Jalisco) and Tepic (Nayarit) is hindering tourism to these areas, costing thousands of jobs for the honest, hard working people of Mexico and depriving travelers of what would, undoubtedly, be one of the most memorable travel experiences of their lives. It’s troubling to see the US State Department make such careless exaggerations, especially when a closer examination of the dangerous regions of the US reveals a country littered with violence and murder. Yet if you asked a member of the US State Department if travelers should avoid visiting Buffalo, New York because there is violence crime in Queens, New York, I very much doubt he/she would say yes. It also seems contradictory for the US to paint such an inaccurate portrait of the safety of Mexico when so many of the country’s own investors are pouring millions of dollars into Mexican resorts and hotels as we pointed out in an article from April.

Again, we always encourage travelers to use common sense and exercise caution when traveling to new areas, but we also encourage those interested in traveling to Mexico to do some research into the true state of affairs in this vast country. We are confident that through accurate reports and through the testimonials of those who have been here, you will find Mexico to be as (if not more) safe, affordable, and rewarding as any other major tourist destination in the world.

Rodolfo Lopez Negrete, chief operating officer of the Mexico Tourism Board, does a nice job commenting on the current state of affairs in Mexico in this recent interview. You can also learn more about the current state of affairs in the Safety of Mexico section of our blog.

On the Road: Southern Mexico


View Southern Mexico Explorer (May) in a larger map

After recently returning from a special trip to Mexico City and the Colonial Heartland and on only a few days rest, Journey Mexico team members head back out into the field tomorrow for a 14 day excursion starting in Mexico City through southern Mexico.

Our travels will take us to the major cities of the central/southern Mexico, breathtaking natural wonders, intimate local villages, and the astonishing archeological sites of ancient Aztecs and Mayans as the Journey Mexico team continues to comb the country for new, unique, and authentic travel experiences to offer our clients.

Joining the trip as the media mogul, I’ll be posting photos and day-by-day reviews of our travels each night. Stay tuned for on-the-ground reports from Central and Southern highlights such as Mexico City, Puebla, Oaxaca, Tuxtla Gutierrez, the Sumidero Canyon, San Cristobal de las Casas, Palenque, Campeche, Merida, and the Riviera Maya!

Brownell 1887 Trip

Brownell Travel

Journey Mexico President, Zachary Rabinor, and Director of Operations, Matteo Luthi, recently returned from a special trip with close partners and dear friends at Brownell Travel. Each year Brownell Travel celebrates their top producers with their annual 1887 club trip to Mexico. This year’s trip began in Mexico City and visited San Miguel de Allende in the Colonial Heartland and ended on the gorgeous shores of the Riviera Maya. Below is a brief outline as well as a slide show of the trip.
Mexico City

Teotihuacan

Teotihuacan

After arrival, the group was privately transferred to the historical center to explore the Zocalo (the 2nd largest public square in the world after Moscow’s Red Square), the National Palace and it’s famous murals painted by Diego Rivera, the Templo Mayor (the once important temple of the Aztecs), and the city’s magnificent cathedral. They then were treated to a site visit of Mexico City’s newest and hottest boutique hotel Las Alcobas – ending back at their exquisite Oasis in the heart of the upscale Polanco Neighborhood Four Seasons Mexico City.

 

The next day took travelers first to the Museum of Anthropology to learn about the ancient civilizations of the Aztecs and Mayas and then to the UNESCO World Heritage archeological site of Teotihuacan to admire the accomplishments of this ancient civilization first hand! After lunch, everyone continued on to San Miguel de Allende for a spectacular dinner before unwinding for the night at the fabulous Casa de Sierra Nevada by Orient Express.

San Miguel de Allende

San Miguel de Allende

The 1887 club and friends had three days in the historic city of San Miguel de Allende to explore the city with expert guides, relax by the pool at the hotel, visit some of the finest jewelers in Mexico, and learn to cook local traditional recipes with local master chefs. They also were treated to lunch and a sit inspection of the brand new Rosewood San Miguel de Allende.
On the third day, the group took a day trip to the nearby city of Guanajuato, once one of the richest silver mining areas in Mexico, to marvel at the Spanish architecture, explore its narrow, European-like streets, and visit local artisans as they worked in their studios. They also were treated to an unforgettable chef’s table at Jardin de los Milagros complete with explanations of each dish by the dynamic, passionate, and quickly rising star Signature Chef Bricio Dominguez. Have a look at Martha Gaughen, partner of Brownell Travel’s thoughts on her culinary experience here on her blog .

Riviera Maya

Maroma Resort

Maroma Resort on the Riviera Maya

After being flown to the Riviera Maya, the 1887 Club found themselves barefoot in the fine white sands with frosty Margaritas as day turned to night over Mexico’s dazzling Caribbean Sea and settled in to the breathtaking Maroma Resort by Orient Express. The following morning found the 1887 Club winners relaxing on the beach, enjoying Maroma’s luxuriant SPA and enjoying their lavish suites before splitting up for lunch and site inspections at Rosewood Mayakoba , Banyan Tree Mayakoba, Fairmont Mayakoba, and the Mandarin Oriental Riviera Maya. After lunch the group set out on a a catamaran to snorkel the crystalline waters of the Caribbean. In the evening, the group returned and freshened up for their farewell dinner at the Grand Velas Riviera Maya.

 

 

As always, the beauty, culture, adventure, and people of Mexico delivered an unforgettable trip for the Brownell Group. It’s always a pleasure travel with Brownell, and we can’t to welcome them back!

Mother’s Day in Mexico

mother's day in mexico

Unlike in the US where Mother’s Day is celebrated on the second Sunday in May, Mexicans honor the mothers of their country each year on May 10th. Much like in the US, sons and daughters thank their mothers on Día de las Madres for all they do by bringing them flowers, cards, and gifts. For some families, attending special church services together and going out to dinner is also part of the Mother’s Day ritual.

There are, however, two traditions of Mother’s Day unique to Mexico that I find especially endearing. The first takes place on May 9th, on the eve of Mother’s day in Mexico, when children travel to their mother’s home to spend family time together. The second happens the next morning when children awaken their mothers by serenading them with special Mother’s Day songs and occasionally with little skits they rehearsed beforehand. Affluent families often hire mariachis to accompany the children as they sing. Travelers in Mexico are often pleasantly surprised when awoken by the beautiful sound of children singing to their mothers from the street.

For US travelers, vacationing in Mexico in May, where you can celebrate Mother’s Day on both Sunday and the 9th, offers the opportunity to really create a special experience around the holiday with your family. And if you really want to impress your mother while you’re here in Mexico, start practicing Las Mañanitas so you can serenade her like the children in the video below!

Why You Should Go To Mexico

This article was originally posted on CNN Traveler and was written by Robert Reid

Cathedral of Guanajuato

Colonial areas safer than ever

New York (CNN) — Mexico tourism is having a bit of a PR problem lately.

Reports of mass grave sites, daylight shootings and carjackings from the escalating drug war don’t exactly build confidence for a family planning a week’s holiday. And on April 22, the U.S. State Department upgraded its travel warnings to target 14 of Mexico’s 31 states.

Now’s not the time to visit our southerly neighbor, right? Well, wrong. Mexico is a lot safer than you may realize.

We tend to lump all of Mexico — a country the size of Western Europe — together. For example, a border incident resulted in the death of a Colorado tourist last year, and the Texas Department of Homeland Security recommended against travel to all of Mexico.

Yet it’s in the 17 of 31 states not named in the newly expanded warnings where you’ll find the most rewarding destinations: the Yucatan Peninsula and Baja California beach resorts, colonial hill towns like the ex-pat haven of San Miguel de Allende, even the capital Mexico City.

Merida, Yucatan

Merida, Yucatan

An hour inland from Cancun’s beaches, Yucatan state — home to the most popular Mayan sites and “real Mexican” colonial cities such as Merida and Valladolid — is among the country’s safest. The state, with roughly the same population as Kansas, saw two drug-related deaths in 2010. Wichita, Kansas, alone had six gang-related killings over the same period.

Lonely Planet: 8 top places to (safely) visit in Mexico now

In most of central and southern Mexico, drug violence simply isn’t on the radar of daily life. “It’s as easy-going as it’s always been,” said Deborah Felixson, a diving operator on Cozumel who is “shocked” when people say they had been scared to go to the Caribbean island. “We’re just small communities here. We all know what everyone’s up to.”

That sentiment is found even in places once linked with political tension, such as Chiapas state and Oaxaca City, where political protest turned into a stand-off in 2006.

“Things are so much quieter now,” said Rogelio Vallesteros, who runs a Spanish-language school in Oaxaca City. “People call to ask about safety all the time, then they come and see how quiet it is. We’re normal, really.”

Mexico tourism official: Vacation spots far removed from violence

After the swine-flu crisis of 2009 — when some cruise ships diverted routes from Mexican ports that had no reported cases to American ones that did — travel bounced back a bit last year. Interestingly, the increase of returning Canadians and many Western Europeans doubled that of the American rate. We seem to remain particularly leery of Mexico.

Uxmal

Exploring Uxmal in the Yucatan Peninsula

That’s sad. My love of travel began with childhood visits to Mexican ruins and beaches, and I feel the U.S. is fortunate, not cursed, to be so close to a place that offers jungles, deserts, volcanoes, beaches, coral reefs, ancient pyramids, living pre-European cultures and some of the world’s most satisfying cuisines.

And of course the best reason to go: the people.

A couple years ago, I informally polled various innkeepers and tour operators worldwide to find out who are the world’s friendliest travelers. Guess who won. “Mexicans are such a joy to have here,” one Bulgarian guesthouse owner e-mailed back. “They make everyone feel happier.”

And it’s often better in Mexico, where locals show particular gusto in love of life. Once I saw fireworks go off in Mexico City, before sunset, and asked a local why. He was surprised I didn’t know. “It’s Friday,” he explained.

In restaurants, strangers seeing each other’s eyes instinctively say “buen provecho” before eating. It’s an earnest wish that their food should not only be tasty, but really pleasurable, and that the hope that their life will be a bit better as a result. There really is no English equivalent. Even our adopted “bon appétit” pales in significance.

Naturally, crime exists everywhere in Mexico.

I’ve been pickpocketed in Guadalajara (and in New York, too). But that’s the extent of my unpleasant scrapes in a dozen visits that have taken me to home-stay language courses, traditional Mayan markets, mummy museums, cenotes (surreal limestone sinkholes in which you can swim) and even Zapatista zones in the south.

Most travel to Mexico, ultimately, is simply good travel. It’s fun, affordable, eye-opening and fascinating (seriously, what other city of 21 million other than Mexico City is founded on a filled-in lake?).

But, no, you don’t have to visit Mexico. And there are certainly places, like Ciudad Juarez or Tamaulipas state, I’d never visit now. Just know that the Mexico experienced on the ground almost never matches the Mexico we increasingly see and read about.

Table Talk – Albondigas al Chipotle Meatballs

table talk imageIn this new webisode of Table Talk, Journey Mexico and El Arrayán restaurant show you how to make a Mexican variation of an classic international dish – the meatball. In Mexico, Albondigas al Chiptole (Chipotle Meatballs) are usually served in a tomato based soup, which containing rice and vegetables as well, but we encourage you to make your own variations and let us know how it turned out in the comments below!

Our Mexico: Nature

Nature Travel in Mexico

Click Image for the Full Ad

Mexico is such a vast and visually stunning country that we at Journey Mexico have decided to showcase the nature, culture, adventure, and luxury experiences that await travelers in Mexico in a series of web-ads called Our Mexico.

We will release a new ad monthly, which we hope you’ll find beautiful enough to share with your friends!

This month’s ad focuses on Nature Travel in Mexico. You can view the full ad here.

Danger Increasing in Mexico? Large Investments Say No

safety in mexico

On April 22nd, the US State Department updated its travel warning for Mexico, expanding it to include five new states: Jalisco, Nayarit, San Luis Potosi, Sonora, and Zacatecas. Although the Travel Warning clearly states: “There is no evidence that U.S. tourists have been targeted by criminal elements due to their citizenship,” the increase of the warning clearly implies that danger in Mexico is increasing. A closer look at indicators from outside the US State Department, however, seem to suggest otherwise – specifically foreign investment.

Mexico’s Minister of Tourism, Gloria Guevara, is confident that Mexico’s tourism sector will receive approximately $3.5 billion over the next three years from foreign investment (believed to be from Spanish, German and Asian companies, specifically). Guevara has stated that “there exists a committed investment of $2.5 billion” and that another $1 billion “will be arriving at the proper time.” Several long time investors are already in motion on fresh projects, and they’re American.

Current W Hotel Mexico City

Travel Weekly recently published an article detailing plans for two new W Hotels to be completed (one in Mexico City and one on the Riviera Maya) by 2014. This new W in Mexico City will actually be the capital city’s second W Hotel, both managed by the American company Starwood Hotels & Resorts. During construction of the new 132-room W, Starwood will also be dishing out a top-to-bottom, multimillion-dollar renovation to the already existing W.

The Riviera Maya W is said to be a 180-room W Retreat & Spa Kanai. The Retreat & Spa will actually be the centerpiece of an even larger project, the Kanai Resort development, which will include four hotels and a beach club.

Apple Leisure Group, based in Pennsylvania, USA, and owners of AMResorts, are nearing completion on two large scale, all inclusive projects, Secrets Litibu and Dreams Litibu, both located in Punta Mita, Nayarit – one of the states added to the newest travel warning.

Personal investments are being made by tens of thousands of American and Canadian families who have chosen to retire in Puerto Vallarta, which was recently chosen by the AARP as the number one place to retire abroad in the world. Puerto Vallarta is located in the state of Jalisco, another state recently added to the US State Department’s new travel warning.

So is danger in Mexico really increasing as the travel warning suggests? Foreign investments, both corporate and consumer, suggest no. And you know what they say: “Always follow the money.”

Semana Santa in Mexico City

Jessica Seba is a marketing assistant at Journey Mexico

Jessica Seba in Mexico CityTypically during the Semana Santa, or Easter week, Mexican families flock to the beach from cities like Guadalajara, Querétaro, Aguascalientes, and Mexico City. Semana Santa is undoubtedly the busiest time for beach towns along Mexico’s coast and for someone living in Puerto Vallarta (like me), the best time to escape! So I took the long weekend to travel to Mexico City, a city I have visited many times before, but never quite fully discovered.

When traveling to Mexico City, I always stay near the Santa Fe area, which is usually a major, bustling business district, but this weekend it was suddenly transformed! I was ecstatic to be visiting at a time when the city was less crowded and the traffic significantly lighter, resulting in a more relaxing environment and even (some say) crisper air.

As mentioned in our Easter in Mexico blog post, Mexicans celebrate during Holy Week with elaborate processions, ceremonies, and rituals. So the plan was to go the the Basilicia of Our Lady of Guadalupe, one of the most visited churches in the world, and see the Via Crucis procession in the Plaza Mariana. The Plaza encompasses the Basilica, surrounded with a smaller church, an ex-convent, a temple, and a museum nearby surrounding gardens. After the procession, I made my way though the beautiful gardens, where the Tepeyacac Chapel sits upon a hill, said to be where an apparition of the Virgin appeared. I was in awe with the beautifully landscaped grounds, the ivory filled arches that branched over the pathway, and the statues representing the apparition sitting against a backdrop of cascading waterfalls. It was really interesting to learn the history behind the apparition and the building of the Basilica and a privilege to be there during one of the most sacred times of the year.

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After doing some research for our original Semana Santa blog post, I was excited to investigate another tradition practiced during Holy Week called “The Burning of Judas,” which was established during the Mexican protest of the Spanish Inquisition. During the tradition, townspeople make paper mache dolls representing unfavorable biblical and public figures then hang them in public areas to be blown up with fireworks. Having never heard of anything quite like this, I was on a mission to see this spectacle and found the opportunity in Cuernavaca, a nearby city that annually hosts a two-week Semana Santa fair. Since most people in Mexico City were gone for the weekend, it was a quick one-hour drive from the city.

Cuernavaca is known as a charming colonial city with ideal year round temperatures. It is home to a UNESCO World Hertiage site, holding some of the Earliest 16th-Century Monasteries. I only had a 24 hour period to spend in Cuernavaca, but I had an excellent guide and in a just a few short hours, I was able to view historic buildings, museums, and a take a guided tour in the Amancalo Ravines. At dusk, we made out way to Jardin Borda, a giant garden with courtyards and fountains, filled with handicraft vendors for the Semana Santa fair. The night started with musical shows from a stage perched behind a huge fountain while crowds of people gathered around in anticipation of the The Burning of Judases.

When night fell, the Chinelos appeared, which are colorfully dressed dancers with masked faces. Traditional to Carnival and Lenten celebrations, The Chinelos tradition originated from people dressing up, shouting, and jumping in the streets of the town, making fun of the Spaniards. Their excitement energized the crowd to cheers as the show began.

Chinelos in Mexico City

This particular Burning of the Judases had three unfortunate figures: Judas, someone I didn’t recognize (probably a political figure), and a giant, ten foot tall Devil. One by one, each figure was blown up with fireworks, and the crowd celebrated wilding by singing and dancing alongside the band. Unfortunately, it was dark by the time of the explosions so I couldn’t get any clear images of “carnage,” but experience was beyond words – everyone so filled with excitement to celebrate a tradition that dates back to the beginning of modern Mexico.

Having the opportunity to learn about Easter traditions and actually experiencing them for myself was definitely a great alternative to the beach. There is so much to discover in Mexico and I wholeheartedly encourage anyone who has the opportunity to seize it. If you are interested in visiting Mexico City and the outlying Central Mexico cities, I suggest touring with a private driver/guide who can give insight to these traditions so you can make the most of your trip.

El Tamarindo Beach & Golf Resort Closing for Renovations

El Tamarindo Beach and Golf Resort

El Tamarindo Beach & Golf Resort, a long time partner location of Journey Mexico located on Mexico’s Pacific Coast, has announced that as of April 13th, they have closed operations for renovations.

According to the resort, they will be contacting agencies with whom they have future bookings for the reimbursement of fees and deposits that have been made.

A re-opening date has yet to be announced, but we look forward to the sure to be excellent improvements to an already gorgeous resort in Costalegre!

Journey Mexico Awarded National Geographic Tours of a Lifetime 2011

National Geographic Tours of a Lifetime

Journey Mexico is proud to announce that our Copper Canyon Semana Santa Hiking Trip has been selected as one of National Geographic Traveler Magazine’s 2011 “50 Tours of a Lifetime,” and will be featured in the May/June 2011 issue of National Geographic Traveler. The Copper Canyon Semana Santa Hiking Trip is the seasonal version of our classic, award winning Copper Canyon Hiking Tour, which runs several times each year.

The National Geographic team spends countless hours researching the most authentic, most innovative, most immersive, best-guided, and most sustainable tours across the globe before choosing their 50 Tours of a Lifetime list. “The outfitters we selected continue to find new ways travelers can connect with places and people,” notes senior editor Norie Quintos, who headed up the project. “More and more, it’s about human interaction.

National Geographic Traveler magazine has been surfacing the best tours and outfitters for travelers for the last six years, as part of the magazine’s mission “to propel readers out of their armchairs and into the field.”

Here’s what some of our recent travelers had to say about the Copper Canyon Semana Santa Hiking Trip:

“Urique Canyon was awesome. We would love to explore other regions in canyon system. We loved the hiking, camping, and trips to the Semana Santa celebrations. The trip was very well planned to minimize long car rides, and the train was fun. Our guide Alejandra was excellent with great connections in local towns. She was very professional, patient, and knowledgeable. Everything was wonderful. Great food, great accommodations, great experience!” – Jeanne Bennett

“We had spectacular scenery, great weather, and friendly and informative guides. All of our hotels had unique characteristics and the tour accommodated our varied interests. Alejandra was excellent. Very informative, helpful, flexible, and fun to be with. Our Copper Canyon Semana Santa Trip was a great adventure!” – Anonymous

“Our guide was terrific! She was very knowledgeable about a wide range of topics. Her expertise and thoughtfulness made our trip very enjoyable and fun.” – Penny McLeod

“Holy Week activities were especially enjoyable. I loved learning and seeing the local Indian culture. Campsites offered breathtaking views and Alejandra was always pleasant, friendly, and receptive to our input. She made guiding look easy.” – Barbara Berger

Journey Mexico Hotel Promotions – April

Journey Mexico is excited to offer the following exclusive promotions in the Colonial Heartland and Mexico’s Pacific Coast:

Boca Chica in AcapulcoBoca Chica – located in Acapulco

  • One complimentary dinner for two
  • Daily breakfast
  • Valid on stays of 3+ nights May/June 2011
  • Rates Starting at $489 for three nights

JM president Zachary Rabinor recently stayed at Boca Chica during this year’s Tianguis trade show and commented: “I loved Boca Chica. Great concept, delicious food, and excellent service.”

Casa de la Real in PatzcuaroCasa de la Real Aduana – located in Patzcuaro

  • 4th night complimentary
  • Daily breakfast
  • Exclusive Journey Mexico offer valid May/June 2011
  • Rates Starting at $264 per night

Rosewood San Miguel de AllendeRosewood San Miguel Allende -located in Guanajuato

  • 4th night complimentary
  • Newly inaugurated hotel
  • Offer valid until May 27,2011
  • Rates Starting at $350 per night

To take advantage of these exclusive promotions, contact Journey Mexico today! You can explore more partner hotels at the Journey Mexico Hotel Collection.