Travel Safety in Perspective: USA vs. Mexico

Posted by & filed under Health and Safety.

This article was written by Tim Leffel and has been re-posted from his blog Tim Leffel’s Cheapest Destinations

There’s been a lot of news coverage about violence in Mexico, very little of it bothering to note that Mexico is a huge country with thirty-some states and that a) almost all of that violence is narco-related and b) you can count the number of tourists affected on one hand.

Meanwhile, according to the FBI, “An estimated 15,241 persons were murdered nationwide in 2009″ in the United States of America.

Officially, 111 U.S. citizens were killed in Mexico last year, a third in just two cities. Almost all of them were involved in illicit vocations, usually the trafficking of guns, drugs, or people across the border. This is 111 out of close to 8 million visitors, with nearly 1 million of those being part- or full-time residents choosing Mexico over the U.S. or Canada.

You know who else had 111 murders in one year recently? Boston. And Las Vegas. And Orlando. Are any tourists scared of going to those places?

Meanwhile, almost 1,000 U.S. citizens died in Puerto Rico. Nobody running the news desks cares about Puerto Rico or has an incentive to make people scared of Puerto Ricans (by nature, they can’t be “illegal immigrants”), so this isn’t widely reported.

Then there’s the U.S. proper, which can’t get a State Department travel alert because it’s, well, not a foreign country. How’s your city doing in comparison to Mexico when it comes to the annual numbers?

Atlanta  – city, 80 murders. Atlanta MSA (metropolitan statistical area), 325 murders
Baltimore – 238 city, 298 MSA
Boston – 50 city, 111 MSA
Dallas/Ft. Worth – 210 city, 310 MSA
Detroit – 365 city, 447 MSA
Houston – 287 city, 462 MSA
Indianapolis – 100 city, 111 MSA
Jacksonville, FL – 99 city, 120 MSA
Kansas City – 100 city, 163 MSA
Las Vegas – 111 city, 133 MSA
Los Angeles – 312 city, 768 MSA
Miami  – 59 city, 377 Miami to Boca Raton corridor
New Orleans – 174 city, 252 MSA
New York City – 471 city, 778 MSA
Orlando – 28 city, 111 MSA
Philadelphia – 302 city, 436 MSA
Phoenix – 122 city, 302 MSA
San Francisco – 45 city, 292 MSA
St. Louis – 143 city, 210 MSA
Washington, DC – 143 city, 325 MSA

To put things in perspective, the murder rate in the Yucatan state of Mexico is 2 per 100,000. That’s about the same as Fond du Lac, Wisconsin or Evansville, Indiana. Mexico City’s is 8 per 100,000. Despite being one of the most populated cities on the planet, that’s on par with Albuquerque, NM. I don’t know about you, but I’ve never felt scared in Albuquerque…

Another Wold in Merida: Hacienda Xcanatun

Posted by & filed under Media, News, On the Road.

During recent travels throughout Central & Southern Mexico, I had the chance to visit the capital city of Yucatan, Merida, with which I was very impressed. Located just off the coast of the Gulf of Mexico and home to almost a million people, Merida makes the perfect launching point for excursions to many of the ancient Mayan archeological sites in the area. As impressed as I was with Merida, however, I was even more impressed with the level of privacy, tranquility, and luxury offered at a local hacienda located just minutes from the hustle and bustle of the capital.

Hacienda Xcanatun

Hacienda Xcanatun in Ruins

Hacienda Xcanatun was originally constructed in the 18th century to cultivate corn and raise livestock but eventually began growing and processing sisal, which is strong fiber from a type of agave plant that was used to make the twine and rope that brought the Yucatan unprecedented amounts of wealth towards the end of the 18th century. Unfortunately, the introduction of synthetic replacements for sisal left Hacienda Xcanatun and most other haciendas in the Yucatan in a decline to ruins. In 1995, however, experts in Colonial and Mayan architecture worked together to rebuild Hacienda Xcanatun into the remarkable property it is today.

Suite Patio

Entering the hacienda is like entering another world altogether. I had a hard time comprehending how we could be just minutes from downtown Merida yet hear nothing but the birds and fountains of the property. The staff of Hacienda Xcanatun gave us a wonderful tour of their many levels of suits and rooms, which were all truly impressive. It is obvious that the owners took great care and paid great attention to even the most minute of details in each room. One suite has a wrought iron spiral staircase inside leading to a second bedroom and others have jacuzzis made of stone in the bathrooms!

Suite Bathroom

After our tour of the property, we were treated to a special five-course lunch at Casa de Piedra, Xcanatun’s restaurant, as guests of owners Jorge Ruz and Cristina Baker who, in turn, requested that chef José Vázquez (one of the most skilled chefs in Mexico) host them in their absence. Casa de Piedra was selected as one of the top 50 restaurants in Mexico by the American Academy of Hospitality Sciences based in New York City, and has been the recipient of the Academy’s Star-Diamond award for excellence over the past eight years. After looking at the photos below, it’s needless to say that the meal was spectacular! In addition to the savory food, the ambiance of the room was both elegant and comfortable, and we were treated to live music as a local pianist who played wonderfully as we dined.

Gourmet Tostada

Seafood Ceviche

Chocolate & Caramel Cake

JM President Zachary Rabinor with chef Jose Vazquez

On behalf of Journey Mexico and our group of international travel experts who were on the trip, many thanks to the Hacienda Xcanatun for such a wonderful day! For more information about the Hacienda Xcanatun, please contact us at [email protected].

The San Marcos National Fair – A True Mexican Experience

Posted by & filed under Holidays, Fairs & Festivals, Media, On the Road.

This is a guest submission written by Joel Duncan of Adventure Jo during his travels to the San Marcos Fair in Aguascalientes, Mexico, which is held from the second week in April until the first week in May

AGUASCALIENTES, MEXICO – “Hey bro where are you from? I’m from Chicago and I’m here with my wife and my buddy from college”. “I’m from Canada”, I replied to the sunburnt man dressed in a baseball cap, shorts, sneakers and an oversized t-shirt. His eyes gleamed with excitement as he confessed that I was only the second English speaker he had met in his three days at the San Marcos National Fair in the Colonial Heartland.  He furthered to say that the only reason he knew about the fair was because his wife was born in Aguascalientes. As I scanned the faces of the lively sea of people drinking, dancing and parading through the busy streets, I felt selfishly satisfied, that I had stumbled upon something truly Mexican.

Two days earlier, I checked into La Katharina Hostel, a relatively new hostel only steps away from the iconic Jardin de San Marcos (San Marcos Garden), the gateway to the heart of the fair.  I was the only foreigner in my 6-bed dorm room – no Aussies, Canadians, Israelis or Americans; as a matter of fact, I was the only foreigner in the entire hostel. When I pictured going off the beaten path, I envisioned traveling to an undiscovered village in the foothills of the Sierra Madre Mountains, not to Mexico’s biggest and most important fair.

More than 100 years ago, The San Marcos National Fair (dubbed Dreamland by its organizers) started off as an event to promote livestock and other products from Aguascalientes.  Today, the fair is said to attract an estimated 7 million tourists over a 3-4 week period. Although livestock is still an important part of the fair, it isn’t what continues to lure millions of predominantly Mexican tourists to the small industrial state. The fair’s organizing committee has created a culturally rich program that is aimed at the entire family and showcases the music, theatre, art, dance, and literature of hundreds of Mexico’s artists. Most of the organized events are free and are hosted in museums, galleries, and stages set up around the city, so a good pair of walking shoes and camera is all that’s needed.

Bullfight at San Marcos FairSome of the more popular attractions include the bullfights, cockfights, a casino, and of course – the parties. I skipped the cockfights and casino but decided to go to my first bullfight, in hopes of having a real cultural experience.  With a seating capacity of 15,000 people and an incredible construction time of only 48 days, the arena was nothing short of impressive. Passionate screams of ‘Ole’ and continuous whistling could be heard as the animated matadors teased and evaded the infuriated bulls. Although I enjoyed the energetic atmosphere of the arena, I only stayed for a half-hour, as my stomach and conscience could no longer handle the very one-sided and bloody battles.

When the sun went down, the party turned up, and although there are numerous posh nightclubs and bars, the biggest bash happened right in the streets. The sounds of tamboras (drums) and trumpets filled the air as Mariachis and Norteñas competed for the attention of those eager to dance the popular polka-infused banda. A cold cerveza was always in reach since during the festival, drinking in the streets is permitted (or should I say encouraged). Countless small stands lined the streets, serving up 1-litre cups of just about any alcoholic beverage the heart desired.  Second to the popular micelada (spiced up beer), my personal favorite was the appropriately named “Bomba” (bomb) – a tasty but undoubtedly potent concoction of several types of alcohol.

The organized events were spectacular but what I enjoyed more was the abundance of talented artists and performers, who brought the city streets to life. I never had to stray far from my hostel door to find someone preforming magic tricks, dancing, playing a musical instrument or entertaining crowds of onlookers with their own artistic talent. The owner of a small restaurant and 25-year resident of Aguascalientes explained why he loves the fair: “The fair brings families together. People who usually only come into town once a month come in several times – and they get all dressed up. The fair gives children more opportunity to spend quality time to with their fathers. I usually visit my family in other parts of Mexico, but when the fair comes, they make their way to little Aguascalientes.”

Traveling as a foreigner in Aguascalientes was very easy and enjoyable since everyone seemed to be curious about where I was from and how I had heard about Aguascalientes. Although it wasn’t necessary, knowing some Spanish certainly helped me to meet more people and get the inside scoop on what events were taking place. If you’re planning a trip to Mexico with your family, friends or like me – solo, and you want a crash course in the country’s culture, art, food, music and fiestas (parties), consider visiting Aguascalientes for next year’s San Marcos National Fair – you won’t be disappointed.

Southern Mexico: The Final Day

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After a quick breakfast at Maroma, we set off for the coastal archeological site of Tulum. Going into the visit, I had the idea that Tulum consisted of only one structure on a seaside cliff, but I was pleasantly surprised when we arrived as there are many ancient homes and pyramids at the site. Our expert guide illuminated the site for us and taught us how to distinguish between what was a home and what was a temple by looking at the structure of the ruins. Of course, the brilliantly turquoise waves lapping the beach below (where you’re welcome to go for a swim) made Tulum especially nice to visit.

On the coast at Tulum

After Tulum, we had an emotional goodbye with our beloved driver, Pedro, who over the course of the past fifteen days, has become both a good friend and bodyguard to our group (not to mention that he’s got to be the best/coolest bus driver in Mexico!).

What a great group!

The rest of the day was spent inspecting some incredible private villas and boutique hotels on the Riviera Maya, ending at our final location, the fabulous Esencia, where we shared one last, delicious group dinner. As we reflected over our final meal together, we realized just how special it has been to travel with such an international cast of characters. In total, our group represented nine countries: Mexico, the US, England, Australia, Hong Kong, Singapore, Belgium, France, and Italy! I’m confident I speak for the group when I say it was an incredible pleasure to spend 14 days getting to know the customs and traditions not only of Mexico but of each other’s countries as well. I’m not even out of the airport and I’m missing everyone already! Hopefully some of the group members will send us a personal review of the trip so that you can get to know them as well. Until then, stay tuned for more photos and video from the trip!

Southern Mexico: Day 12

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Today began with a very special morning as we awoke at 5:30am for private visit and guided tour of the archeological site Chichen Itza. With it’s massive ball court and one of the most impressive pyramids in all of Mexico, Chichen Itza is one of the most visited archeological sites in the country. Having the opportunity to visit the site with no one but a small group of your friends as we have become on this excursion through southern Mexico was a privilege indeed.

Chichen Itza in the morning

The name Chichen Itza means “the mouth of the well of Itza,” referring to the cenote of Itza. The Yucatan peninsula is a very porous land mass covered in natural sink holes called cenotes, which were essential to the ancient Maya for both their physical and spiritual needs. After our visit to the archeological site, we were able to cool off in a local cenote before heading off to the Riviera Maya.

Cooling off in a cenote

After several site inspections in the Riviera Maya, we met for dinner at one of the restaurants at the luxurious Rosewood resort, where we stayed for the night. At dinner, we celebrated the birthday of one of our group members, Steve from Singapore. I don’t think I’ve ever seen such a special birthday cake ceremony as Steve was sung “Happy Birthday” in seven different languages by our international group!

Happy Birthday Steve!

Tomorrow is a day of nothing but site-inspections, but stay tuned for the final day of our trip when we’ll visit the picturesque archeological site of Tulum!

Go to The Final Day >>

Southern Mexico: Days 10 & 11

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Hacienda Uayamon

Day ten was a day of luxury. Waking up at the gorgeous Hacienda Uayamon, we had breakfast and then relaxed by the pool, which was surrounded by the ruins of one of the buildings on the property. In the height of its prosperity, the Yucatan Peninsula made a fortune in the creation and sales of a certain type of rope. When synthetic replacements came along, the area fell into ruin, leaving many of the haciendas (basically plantations) abandoned. Today, Starwood has restored several of these haciendas into the most fabulous, private, and luxurious hotels you could imagine. After leaving Uayamon, we were fortunate enough to stay in another hacienda property, Hacienda Santa Rosa, the following night!

The pool at Uayamon

After breakfast at Santa Rosa, we set out for an expertly guided exploration of the archeological site Uxmal, which many consider to be one of the finest examples of classic Mayan architecture. We were lucky to have a perfectly sunny afternoon at Uxmal, allowing us to get some surreal photos from the site.

Piramid at Uxmal

From Uxmal, we traveled to Merida, the capital city of the Yucatan. Upon arrival, we visited the Governor’s Palace, where our Journey Mexico guide Alex explained the significance of the giant and moving murals that line its halls. Each mural plays a part in the history of Mexico, and several of the depictions of what the Spanish did to the natives were tough to view.

Spanish torture mural

From the palace, we visited Merida’s most extravagant street, which is lined with massive mansions built in the style of the French. On this street, we visited the super-chic boutique hotel Rosas y Xocolate. If you have a girlfriend or wife who likes pink and chocolate, trust me, she would die to stay here.

Rosas & Xocolate

Moving on from Merida, we journeyed to the magical town of Izamal, the “Yellow City,” where we visited the convent where the Spanish Bishop Diego de Landa Calderon burned many of the Mayan codices and images, effectively erasing much of Mayan history.

The Monastery at Izamal

From Izamal, we traveled to our final destination of the day, the Lodge at Chichen Itza, which is a hotel literally a stone’s throw away from the archeological site. It was originally built to house the first archeologists from Harvard University to excavate the site. Stay tuned for a report on what we saw tomorrow!

Go to Day 12 >>

Southern Mexico: Days 7-9

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When we left San Cristobal de las Casas, we entered some pretty deep jungle where internet was non-existent. Here is a brief recap of what we encountered as we set out to find the ancient Maya.

Day 7 – After a hike through the highlands of Chiapas, we reached Toniná, featuring one of the most well developed central temple complexes in Mayan civilization. The base of the temple has a real labyrinth that we were able to wander through in the dark.

Climbing Toniná

From Toniná, we continued on to a natural wonder, the Misol Ha waterfall. Falling more than 130 feet from top to bottom, Misol Ha was impressive even now at the end of the dry season. Our guide Roberto informed us that during the rainy season, the cascade of Misol Ha more than doubles in width and the force of the water is so great, visitors get sprayed with water even when standing high on the banks. Because the rainy season has not yet started, we were able to actually walk behind the waterfall and explore caves containing smaller rivers.

Walking behind the falls at Misol-Ha

Walking behind the falls at Misol-Ha

Day 8 – Today, we visited two of the most difficult to access and the most impressive sites in the Mayan world: Yaxchilán and Bonampak. Traveling through the jungle by boat, we arrived at Yaxchilán, which was home to a powerful group of Mayans that dominated the Usumacinta River area.

Hiking down from Yaxchilán

Bonampak was a smaller community of Mayans who were actually ruled by Yaxchilán. Their significance, however, is great because they left behind astonishingly vivid frescos inside their temples, accurately depicting battles, bizarre rituals of torture, and bloodletting. The frescoes found at Bonampak are unmatched throughout the Mayan world as we currently know it.

Paintings at Bonampak

Day 9 – Today we set out for the costal city of Campeche but not before an early morning visit to the magnificent archeological site of Palenque. Nestled deep in the jungle at the foot of the Sierra Madre del Sur, Palenque was an important and powerful group of ancient Mayans. Their city was created around 100 BC and although the site is massive and sheds a lot of light on the traditions, rituals, ceremonies, and spirituality of the ancient Maya, only a very small fraction of the actual site has been excavated.

Looking at the Temple of Inscriptions at Palenque

From Palenque, we traveled into the waterfront city of Campeche, a famous port city on the Gulf of Mexico. When the Spaniards overtook the city of Campeche, it became a booming port constantly bustling with trade. The sudden increase in trade traffic quickly attracted pirates who would often attack merchant ships heading back to Spain after loading up with gold and silver from Mexico. Here in Campeche, our groups splits up to stay at two of the Hacienda properties, Puerta Campeche and Uayamon, where we will no doubt redefine our definitions of luxury.

Town square in Campeche

Stay tuned for more!

Go to Days 10 & 11 >>

Southern Mexico: Days 5 and 6

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Our private fleet

Day 5 was a bit of a travel day as we boarded two small, private planes and flew from Oaxaca to Tuxtla Gutierrez in the southern most state of Chiapas. From Tuxtla, we transferred to Chiapa de Corso for a boat ride through the Sumidero Canyon.

Cruising through the Sumidero Canyon

The canyon itself was impressive with its walls climbing thousands of feet towards the sky, but I was more impressed with the history of the canyon. Our Journey Mexico Chiapas guide, Roberto, explained to us that when the Spanish conquistadors arrived in Chiapas with ally Mexican Indians, they met resistance from a specific group of natives in the area. Out numbered but refusing to give in to the Spanish, this group ultimately retreated into the canyon using its steep walls and narrow entry as natural protection. Hernan Cortez and his troops eventually caught up with the rebellious natives and destroyed them.

San Cristobal de las Casas

After the canyon, we had lunch in Chiapa de Corso then continued on the highland city of San Cristobal de las Casas, where the climate is drastically cooler than that of the lowlands from where we came. Our group was immediately impressed by the beauty of San Cristobal. It has a very European feel with its narrow streets and abundance of cafes, restaurants, bars, and shops. The city has a very bohemian vibe going on and I was surprised to see the amount of European travelers who looked like they’d been camped out in San Cristobal for some time. Before settling into our hotel, we did site inspections of Villa Mercedes, Casa Felipe Flores, and Casa Mexicana (where we have been staying).

Day 6 began with breakfast in the hotel as usual, which was followed by a trip into the outskirts of town to a village called San Juan Chamula. Roberto gave us some nice insight into the history of the local people on our way out, explaining how the Chamula peoples’ ancestors were one of the few groups to never be fully conquered or captured by the Spanish. Their ancient traditions still carry on today, and we were lucky enough to be permitted into their church to witness their most unique customs.

Roberto teaching us about San Juan Chamulan Customs

The Chamula are still considered “pagan” by the catholic church, even though the religion they practice is sort of a mash-up of catholic and ancient native beliefs. Roberto told us several of the parables they hold to be true including one in which Jesus had a younger brother who was basically murdered by Jesus for being too greedy. Inside the church (whose floor was covered with pine needles, burning incense, and lit candles), we witnessed many local shamans performing healing rituals on the sick. Some of the rituals involved rubbing the back of the sick person with chicken eggs, steady chanting, and the drinking of a locally brewed rum (called Posh), which they would also pour out between the candles for the Saints to drink.

The church of San Juan Chamula

The most striking ritual actually involved a sacrifice. Roberto explained that the Chamula people believe that certain illnesses are caused because a piece of the sick person’s soul has been taken by dark spirits. To retrieve the piece or pieces of missing soul, a shaman will offer the spirits a chicken in exchange for the soul. To do this, the chicken must be killed right there in the church. In the fifteen or so minutes we were in the church, we probably witnessed four or five chickens being strangled in sacrifice. Roberto noted that Priest of the church (who had been thrown out by the people many years before) is occasionally called back to the church to baptize the children. After he performs the baptism, however, he is then asked to leave again as he does not approve of the sacrifices, rituals, and the drinking of posh within the church. (See reactions of our visit into the church from three members of our group below).

From San Juan Chamula, we drove to another local village called Zinacantán, where we again had the pleasure of being welcomed into the home of a local family to learn about their customs. This particular family produced brightly colored rugs which are woven on what they call a back-strap loom. One of the women ties the one end of the loom to a post and attaches to the other end to a belt that is worn around her back. Leaning backwards to create tension in the loom, she weaves intricate patterns into the rug. Many of our group purchased rugs and table runners from the family as they were too beautiful to pass up.

Zinacantán woman weaving

Before leaving the home for an incredible open-air buffet lunch, we were treated to some homemade quesadillas with beans on blue tortillas as well as a few bottles of homemade posh. It was tough not to spoil our appetites with more than one quesadilla as they were so delicious. The posh was tasty as well – and potent! In fact, two of our group members enjoyed it so much they “got married” in traditional Zinacantán wardrobe. Although the wedding only lasted a few minutes, it was a beautiful ceremony.

Our newlyweds

After lunch, we visited the enchanting estate of the Parador San Juan for a site-inspection then returned to the hotel to relax before a lovely Italian dinner on a terrace overlooking one of the many lively streets of San Cristobal. Tomorrow, we travel to for Palenque, stopping at several ancient archeological sites on the way. Stay tuned for more to come!

Go to Days 7-9 >>

Southern Mexico: Day 4

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After breakfast, we traveled to the Tlacolula Valley for the weekly Sunday tianguis, which is one of Oaxaca’s oldest and most important markets. Florencio guided us through the thousands of stalls selling everything from fruits and vegetables, to clothing, to livestock. I’m pretty sure you could find anything at that market if you looked hard enough.

Oaxaca Market

There is a church at the center of the market, which is both beautiful and interesting. Florencio explained to us that the main part of the church is where the people from Oaxaca City take their mass (in Spanish) while at market but that the local people worship in a smaller chapel attached of the side of the church (in their native language of Zapoteca). We respectfully entered the chapel and Florencio took us to a corner where there is a very rare (and very lifelike) sculpture of Jesus Christ made of real bone, real human hair, and a sugar mold. It was so real looking and the agony on the figures face was so vivid, you couldn’t help but be moved. Florencio explained to us how the local people pin little charms and photos to the figure’s robe, asking for blessings or health.

Market church (Local chapel on the right side)

Leaving the hustle and bustle of the market, we had the immense privilege of visiting a local Zapotec family of artisans in Teotitlan del Valle. In accord with their traditions, we initially met the family in their alter room (something all families in the community have in their homes), where the eldest of the family offered peace and welcomed us into her home (all in her Zapotecan dialect translated to us by Florencio). As a group, we offered a candle of peace, which was lit and placed next to the single candle the family had burning. Turning our words into actions (which we learned is crucial in their customs), each one of us stepped forward and exchanged embraces with each family member. I think I speak for the group when I say that the tradition was both spiritual and moving.

After our greeting, we were officially friends of the family and were given two demonstrations of how their family makes their crafts. The first was a candle-making demonstration from start to finish, showing us how the granddaughter take pure bee’s wax, melts it down adding color if needed, dips hand woven wicks into the liquid wax, hangs them to dry, and then repeats the process (which usually takes hundreds of dippings). She also showed us how she uses handmade molds to create shaped candles like those of little birds. Mairhi, from Abercombie & Kent Cheltenham, actually got to (carefully) make a bird herself!

Oaxaca candles

Making candles by hand

The second demonstration of how the family weaves rugs of intricate designs was fascinating as well. To make the dyes, the family actually collects these tiny insects that live on cactuses, which, when dried out and crushed, become a bright red powder. By mixing certain amounts of acid (like that found in lemons) and other flowers, they can alter the color to produce blues, greens, and other colors as well. We watched the grandfather work the brightly colored threads on a massive loom, and several of our group purchased some of the valuable rugs to take home.

oaxaca weavers

Our weaving demonstration

Before we left the family’s home, they cooked us a huge three-course lunch, which we ate a very large table in the alter room. After being offered cold beers and warm mezcal, we were served homemade cheese and salsa; a hearty soup of vegetables, squash stems, and squash blossoms; and finally homemade tamales – Oaxacan style. On special occasions in the Journey Mexico office, we eat tamales but I have to say, the tamales we get in Puerto Vallarta are nothing compared to these. The tamales (which are made of eclair-shaped cornmeal stuffed with different meats, then wrapped in corn husks and steamed) in Puerto Vallarta are usually quite fluffy and a little more than an inch in diameter. These Oaxacan style tamales were very flat with a consistency similar to a ravioli. They were covered in a savory red sauce and were just delicious – probably one of the best meals of my life.

Lunch in a traditional Zapotec home

As we were leaving, the grandmother explained to us (through Florencio) that she was sad because she only speaks her native dialect of Zapotec and could not properly express the love she felt for each of us and the gratitude she felt for us having visited her home. She also explained that it was not random coincidence that life had brought us all together, and she personally blessed each of us as we exited. Again, it was a very touching, moving, and inspiring experience that I feel very fortunate to have been a part of.

Pork and shrimp masterpiece by Alejandro Ruiz

When we returned to downtown Oaxaca, we went on three site-inspections of Casa Abu, Camino Real, and Casa del Sotano before freshening up for dinner. Again we were invited to the chef’s table by famous signature chef Alejandro Ruiz of Casa Oaxaca. As we sat to dine on the rooftop terrace, the skies opened up giving the dinner, literally, an electrifying atmosphere. Fortunately, we were under cover and were able to enjoy the five courses of magic that Alejandro and his team made for us as we watched the lightening and downpour all around us. In the morning, we leave via two small private planes for Tuxtla Gutierrez!

Go to Days 5 & 6 >>

Southern Mexico: Day 3

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Dinner overlooking the zocalo in Oaxaca

Friday evening ended with a hearty, traditional Oaxacan dinner at Azador Don Vasco, overlooking the lively town square.  We were privileged enough to have been invited to dinner by two members of the Mexican Tourism Board Oaxaca – Nisa Lopez and Veronica Espinoza, the Oaxaca Secretary of Tourism.

Morning walking tour of Oaxaca

After sleeping off the rich mole from dinner, we enjoyed a light breakfast and embarked on a morning walking tour of Oaxaca with Journey Mexico master guide, Florencio. We were quickly in awe of the gorgeous architecture of Oaxaca, a mix of Spanish and neo-classical styles. Florencio illuminated the scenic streets with insight into the history of each important building, of which there are many. We learned of a famous Oaxacan and Mexican artist, Francisco Toledo, who purchased and restored several buildings throughout the city, making each a unique museum of art, and then donated them to the people. Toledo was concerned that natives from outside the city were intimidated by museums thinking they were only for the rich, so he was proud to declare that all of his museums would be (and still are) free for everyone to enjoy.

Breakfast at the market

Leaving the city center, we climbed the nearby mountains in our coach until we reached the lofty archeological site of Monte Alban where the royalty and elite of the Zapotec (and later the Mixtec) people built their homes and temples, some 7,000+ feet above sea level. Florencio gave us a wonderful talk about the customs and traditions of the ancient Zapotecs as well as about the local flora that was so important to both the ancient people of Monte Alban as well as to Oaxacans today. After Florencio’s moving illustrations, we were free to explore the homes, the ballcourt, and the temples of the site.

Ball Court of Monte Alban

Florencio describing the ball court of Monte Alban

From Monte Alban, we drove to the outskirts of town to meet Zenny, a famous wood-carver who, with his family, makes intricately carved and vividly painted animal figurines of all sizes. We were mesmerized by Zenny’s skill and by how each member of the family had been trained to be a master of a different stage in production. After demonstrations of carving and painting, we were treated to a homemade lunch of chicken and squash-blossom quesadillas, accompanied by shots of  Mezcal, the smokey sister of tequila.

Zenny and family hard at work

After purchasing some of Zenny’s crafts to take home, we traveled to the workshop of another famous artisan, Doña Sophia who, although she can’t remember the actual number, is ninety-something in age. For nearly a century, she has been shaping pottery and ceramics by hand from a special mixture of local clay, which, when fired in a certain method, turns completely black. Doña Sophia is one of the few potters in Mexico who still uses only her hands and two plates to spin the clay as she works, as opposed to the now common mechanical methods of spinning the material. Doña Sophia has trained her family to continue her craft and we were privileged to see her shape a pot in front of us, which was then decorated with carved intricacies by her great-granddaughter. I don’t think it’s possible for me to express in words just how special both the demonstration and meeting Doña Sophia was.

Dona Sofia of Oaxaca

Doña Sofia at work

Having business to attend to, we reluctantly left the pottery shop and headed back into town for site-inspections of three beautiful hotels: Hostal La Noria, Casa Catrina, and Casa Oaxaca. Finishing our work for the day, we freshened up and met again at Casa Crespo, where we were invited to a special, six course dinner by owner, chef, and long time Journey Mexico friend, Oscar Corizoza. More to come tomorrow!

Go to Day 4 >>

Southern Mexico: Day 2

Posted by & filed under Media, On the Road, Puebla.

Day 2 was a bit of a transit day as we made our way from Mexico City to Oaxaca, some 290 miles south/west. We did make two stops along the way, however, before we settled into our luxury coach for the 4 hour drive to Oaxaca.

Tlachihualtepetl

Spanish Church Atop Tlachihualtepetl Pyramid

Our first stop was in Cholula to view Tlachihualtepetl, the Great Pyramid of Cholula, which is the largest archeological pyramid in the world (yes, bigger than all the pyramids of Egypt!). It may not be as well known to the world because of the fact that it is still buried under vegetation. When the Spanish conquered the area, they built a giant church atop the pyramid and allowed the pyramid to be covered with grass and weeds. Unfortunately, we didn’t have time to actually explore the pyramid and cathedral, but just seeing it in person was impressive.

Restuarants on the Zocala in Peubla

After Cholula, we continued on to the city of Puebla, with which I was most impressed. The city’s architecture consists of both Renaissance and Mexican Baroque buildings and structures, many of which are painted in bright blues, reds, and yellows. Puebla has a beautiful zocalo, or town square, surrounded by restaurants and charming cafes. On one side of the square is a cathedral that has the tallest bell tower in Mexico!

Puebla Cathedral

The Cathedral on the Zocalo of Puebla

We visited another church in Cholula that was radiant with golden intricacies before doing a site-inspection of Mesones Sacristia, which was a really interesting hotel with a lush courtyard. Before heading off to Oaxaca, we completed one last site-inspection at La Purificadora hotel, another of the Grupo Habita.

Purificadora

Lunch at the Purificadora Hotel

Purifacadora Hotel was amazing. The building used to be an old water purification factory, hence the name, and has since been converted into a massive boutique hotel that defines chic luxury. We had lunch at one of the gigantic wooden tables (made from beams found in the factory) before making our journey south. Stay tuned for three days of reporting from Oaxaca!

Go to Day 3 >>

The Riviera Nayarit – Mexico’s Newest Hot Spot

Posted by & filed under Adventure, Culture, Luxury, Nature, News.

Casa Papelillos, Riviera Nayarit

Casa Papelillos in Punta Mita

The Riviera Nayarit has been getting a lot of attention these days, and for good reason. The Riviera Nayarit is home to some of Mexico’s most beautiful coastline, private villas, and resorts. Travel Weekly recently published an article called Culture, Adventure, Sand, and Surf Await Visitors to Riviera Nayarit, highlighting the variety of adventure and nature opportunities available in the area as well as the rich culture and the vivid art of the Huichol people, indigenous to the highlands that tower over the coast.

Celebrities have been sneaking away to the area for years and many own gorgeous cost-line villas in Punta Mita, located just north of the long time favorite coastal city of Puerto Vallarta. Us Magazine.com recently published photos of the international famed Kardashian family celebrating Kourtney Kardashian’s 32nd birthday in Punta Mita.

Punta Mita is also home to the St. Regis Punta Mita the Four Seasons Punta Mita as well as countless private villas available for rent that will make your jaw drop. Due to it’s proximity to Puerto Vallarta (where the main Journey Mexico offices are located), Punta Mita and the Riviera Nayarit is a favorite weekend-retreat and surf destination for the Journey Mexico team.

Southern Mexico: Day 1

Posted by & filed under Media, On the Road.

Day one was a whirlwind! Our first day in Mexico City began at 8am with an amazing fruit breakfast in our hotel (Las Alcobas), which is pictured above. Shortly after, we set out to do a series of hotel site-inspections, which took us to some of the most chic and beautiful hotels in the city including Hotel Habita, the Four Seasons, and the St. Regis (where Bono of U2 is currently staying although we weren’t lucky enough to run into him today).

After a few hours of work, we got to enjoy an expertly guided tour of the historic center of Mexico City including the Zocalo (which is the second biggest public square in the world!), the National Palace, the Templo Mayor, and the Metropolitan Cathedral. Obviously they were all amazing, but I have to say that the National Palace is probably the most impressive thing I’ve ever seen in my life. Imagining the royal court that actually lived, met, and partied in the palace as you walked its endless halls was absolutely surreal.

Diego Rivera Murals in the Palacio Nacional

The gigantic murals of the palace, painted by the famed Diego Rivera, were impressive but I didn’t grasp the true significance of the paintings until until our Journey Mexico super-guide, Juan Carlos, gave us an in-depth description of what the murals actually meant and signified. How someone could conceptualize paintings so large and so complex with so many levels of meaning just baffled me.

Next came lunch at a local torta/juice cafe, which was both delicious and fun. They had a larger variety of tortas (Mexican sandwiches) than I’ve ever seen in one place. I went with “The Mexicana,” which consisted of chorizo, bistec, jalepeños, and queso (Mexican sausage, steak, peppers, and cheese). Sooo good. The variety of juices was also impressive and they even let a few of us hop behind the counter to squeeze some fresh concoctions of our own.

Working the Juicer

After lunch, it was back to work with a site-inspection of the Mexico’s Gran Hotel, which, to me, was breathtaking. The entire ceiling of the lobby, which is probably the size of a football field about four floors up, is one enormous work of stain-glass and cast iron. At each end of the lobby is an old, elegant elevator also made of cast iron – so old in fact, they are the first two elevators ever to arrive in all of Latin America, and they still work!).  We actually ran into another VIP Journey Mexico group at the hotel and I got to watch them ride up the elevators, which is a privilege not offered to most guests.

Continuing on by foot, we walked several scenic blocks to the home of Frida Kahlo and Diego Rivera for a private tour on which our JM guide let us in on a secret that many of the thousands of visitors to the museum each year are not told! I won’t give it away, but here’s a hint: In one of the rooms you visit, you are closer to Frida than you could ever imagine.

Frida's house from the courtyard

After learning about the fascinating lives of two of Mexico’s most cherished artists, we stopped for a quick visit to the impressive Church of Coyoacan before heading out to two more site-inspections at Brick, one of Mexico’s newest boutique hotels, and at Condesa DF, another hotel by Grupo Habita – the kings of cool in Mexico.

Like I said, long day, but it was certainly worth the tired legs. Now we’re off to relax at enjoy a sure-to-be amazing dinner at Los Alcobas’s Dulce Patria restaurant, one of the hottest restaurants in Mexico City, with the Michael Chiche, the General Manager of Las Alcobas, and Marta Ortiz, the famous chef of Dulce Patria. In the morning, we leave Mexico City for Puebla and Oaxaca – stay tuned!

Zachary Rabinor, Marta Ortiz, and Michael Chiche

Zach with Marta Ortiz and Michael Chiche at dinner

*Morning Update* Dinner was fabulous! Several of us had duck in a rich mole while most of the group had a filet of sea bass that looked delicious as well. Two perfectly paired wines from Baja California were served throughout the evening, which elevated the culinary experience even further. After dinner, Michael surprised with a special champagne toast in the penthouse suite of Las Alcobas! Muchas gracias Marta y Michael! Now on to Puebla!

Go to Day 2 >>

The US’s New Travel Warning for Mexico Misleading

Posted by & filed under Health and Safety, News.

Is Mexico Safe?

As many are aware of by now, the US State Department updated its travel warning for Mexico on April 22nd of 2011, broadening it to include several more areas than the previous warning. While we at Journey Mexico agree that safety is always the number one priority when it comes to travel in any foreign country, we also agree with those who feel that the language of the new travel warning is confusing, vague, and fairly irresponsible.

As Travel Weekly has pointed out in an article from April 28th and in a newer article from May 5th, the new travel warning cites the entire states of Nayarit and Jalisco as areas to be avoided instead of focusing specifically on the troubled pockets of the major cities in these states where crime has occurred. Puerto Vallarta, Jalisco (recently voted by the AARP as the number one place in the world for Americans to retire) and Punta Mita, Nayarit (arguably Mexico’s hottest new beach region) have shown no signs of recent danger to tourists and are clearly misrepresented by the US State Department’s new warning.

Lumping Puerto Vallarta and Punta Mita in with the dangerous pockets of Guadalajara (Jalisco) and Tepic (Nayarit) is hindering tourism to these areas, costing thousands of jobs for the honest, hard working people of Mexico and depriving travelers of what would, undoubtedly, be one of the most memorable travel experiences of their lives. It’s troubling to see the US State Department make such careless exaggerations, especially when a closer examination of the dangerous regions of the US reveals a country littered with violence and murder. Yet if you asked a member of the US State Department if travelers should avoid visiting Buffalo, New York because there is violence crime in Queens, New York, I very much doubt he/she would say yes. It also seems contradictory for the US to paint such an inaccurate portrait of the safety of Mexico when so many of the country’s own investors are pouring millions of dollars into Mexican resorts and hotels as we pointed out in an article from April.

Again, we always encourage travelers to use common sense and exercise caution when traveling to new areas, but we also encourage those interested in traveling to Mexico to do some research into the true state of affairs in this vast country. We are confident that through accurate reports and through the testimonials of those who have been here, you will find Mexico to be as (if not more) safe, affordable, and rewarding as any other major tourist destination in the world.

Rodolfo Lopez Negrete, chief operating officer of the Mexico Tourism Board, does a nice job commenting on the current state of affairs in Mexico in this recent interview. You can also learn more about the current state of affairs in the Safety of Mexico section of our blog.

On the Road: Southern Mexico

Posted by & filed under Media, News, On the Road.


View Southern Mexico Explorer (May) in a larger map

After recently returning from a special trip to Mexico City and the Colonial Heartland and on only a few days rest, Journey Mexico team members head back out into the field tomorrow for a 14 day excursion starting in Mexico City through southern Mexico.

Our travels will take us to the major cities of the central/southern Mexico, breathtaking natural wonders, intimate local villages, and the astonishing archeological sites of ancient Aztecs and Mayans as the Journey Mexico team continues to comb the country for new, unique, and authentic travel experiences to offer our clients.

Joining the trip as the media mogul, I’ll be posting photos and day-by-day reviews of our travels each night. Stay tuned for on-the-ground reports from Central and Southern highlights such as Mexico City, Puebla, Oaxaca, Tuxtla Gutierrez, the Sumidero Canyon, San Cristobal de las Casas, Palenque, Campeche, Merida, and the Riviera Maya!

Brownell 1887 Trip

Posted by & filed under On the Road, Riviera Maya & Tulum.

Brownell Travel

Journey Mexico President, Zachary Rabinor, and Director of Operations, Matteo Luthi, recently returned from a special trip with close partners and dear friends at Brownell Travel. Each year Brownell Travel celebrates their top producers with their annual 1887 club trip to Mexico. This year’s trip began in Mexico City and visited San Miguel de Allende in the Colonial Heartland and ended on the gorgeous shores of the Riviera Maya. Below is a brief outline as well as a slide show of the trip.
Mexico City

Teotihuacan

Teotihuacan

After arrival, the group was privately transferred to the historical center to explore the Zocalo (the 2nd largest public square in the world after Moscow’s Red Square), the National Palace and it’s famous murals painted by Diego Rivera, the Templo Mayor (the once important temple of the Aztecs), and the city’s magnificent cathedral. They then were treated to a site visit of Mexico City’s newest and hottest boutique hotel Las Alcobas – ending back at their exquisite Oasis in the heart of the upscale Polanco Neighborhood Four Seasons Mexico City.

 

The next day took travelers first to the Museum of Anthropology to learn about the ancient civilizations of the Aztecs and Mayas and then to the UNESCO World Heritage archeological site of Teotihuacan to admire the accomplishments of this ancient civilization first hand! After lunch, everyone continued on to San Miguel de Allende for a spectacular dinner before unwinding for the night at the fabulous Casa de Sierra Nevada by Orient Express.

San Miguel de Allende

San Miguel de Allende

The 1887 club and friends had three days in the historic city of San Miguel de Allende to explore the city with expert guides, relax by the pool at the hotel, visit some of the finest jewelers in Mexico, and learn to cook local traditional recipes with local master chefs. They also were treated to lunch and a sit inspection of the brand new Rosewood San Miguel de Allende.
On the third day, the group took a day trip to the nearby city of Guanajuato, once one of the richest silver mining areas in Mexico, to marvel at the Spanish architecture, explore its narrow, European-like streets, and visit local artisans as they worked in their studios. They also were treated to an unforgettable chef’s table at Jardin de los Milagros complete with explanations of each dish by the dynamic, passionate, and quickly rising star Signature Chef Bricio Dominguez. Have a look at Martha Gaughen, partner of Brownell Travel’s thoughts on her culinary experience here on her blog .

Riviera Maya

Maroma Resort

Maroma Resort on the Riviera Maya

After being flown to the Riviera Maya, the 1887 Club found themselves barefoot in the fine white sands with frosty Margaritas as day turned to night over Mexico’s dazzling Caribbean Sea and settled in to the breathtaking Maroma Resort by Orient Express. The following morning found the 1887 Club winners relaxing on the beach, enjoying Maroma’s luxuriant SPA and enjoying their lavish suites before splitting up for lunch and site inspections at Rosewood Mayakoba , Banyan Tree Mayakoba, Fairmont Mayakoba, and the Mandarin Oriental Riviera Maya. After lunch the group set out on a a catamaran to snorkel the crystalline waters of the Caribbean. In the evening, the group returned and freshened up for their farewell dinner at the Grand Velas Riviera Maya.

 

 

As always, the beauty, culture, adventure, and people of Mexico delivered an unforgettable trip for the Brownell Group. It’s always a pleasure travel with Brownell, and we can’t to welcome them back!

Mother’s Day in Mexico

Posted by & filed under News.

mother's day in mexico

Unlike in the US where Mother’s Day is celebrated on the second Sunday in May, Mexicans honor the mothers of their country each year on May 10th. Much like in the US, sons and daughters thank their mothers on Día de las Madres for all they do by bringing them flowers, cards, and gifts. For some families, attending special church services together and going out to dinner is also part of the Mother’s Day ritual.

There are, however, two traditions of Mother’s Day unique to Mexico that I find especially endearing. The first takes place on May 9th, on the eve of Mother’s day in Mexico, when children travel to their mother’s home to spend family time together. The second happens the next morning when children awaken their mothers by serenading them with special Mother’s Day songs and occasionally with little skits they rehearsed beforehand. Affluent families often hire mariachis to accompany the children as they sing. Travelers in Mexico are often pleasantly surprised when awoken by the beautiful sound of children singing to their mothers from the street.

For US travelers, vacationing in Mexico in May, where you can celebrate Mother’s Day on both Sunday and the 9th, offers the opportunity to really create a special experience around the holiday with your family. And if you really want to impress your mother while you’re here in Mexico, start practicing Las Mañanitas so you can serenade her like the children in the video below!